The American Bison

 



Food preservation: pemmican

Before refrigeration, canning, supermarkets and corner stores, people had to use other methods for preserving food. Smoking and drying were very common. For hundreds of years, the Native peoples of the Americas have prepared meats in this manner in order to keep them for long periods of time.

Drying the meat of large animals such as the bison was especially necessary because whole carcasses could never be consumed before the meat spoiled. A single bison provides a great amount of meat; considering that the bulls average 700 kilograms and a cow weighs 450 kilograms.

One ingenious method of preserving meats, which is still used today, is the making of pemmican. Pemmican is a Cree word which originally signified a process of preparing animal bone marrow to be eaten with dried meat. The meaning has evolved to become the name for the combined end product. Pemmican actually consists of three ingredients: dried meat, bone marrow grease (or other animal fat), and sun-dried wild berries. Pemmican usually consists of about 45% meat, 40% grease, and 15% berries. The weight of berries is reduced by around 75% through drying, while the meat is reduced in weight by about 65% through drying.

In traditional Plains First Nations culture, the women made pemmican, a mixture of dried, powdered buffalo meat, melted buffalo fat and berries. Packed away in tightly sewn skin bags, the pemmican remains edible for years.


Image source: National Archives of Canada / E.S. Curtis.

To make pemmican, meat is cut into thin strips and set out to dry on peeled willow racks over hot coal embers, or simply in the sun and wind. Once it is sufficiently dried, it is shredded and pounded between two rocks into fine pieces. Dried wild berries are added to it. Then hot marrow grease is added to the mixture. Large leg bones such as femurs and tibias are taken for marrow because they contain the greatest amount.

This is all put into a pouch made of bison stomach or intestine, which is closed and sealed with hot grease. Once cool, the pouch hardens, and provides a hermetic (air tight) seal. This seal is the strength of pemmican; it keeps out air-borne bacteria which might spoil the meat. It’s almost impossible to tell the difference between four-year old properly sealed pemmican and freshly prepared pemmican.

The best pemmican is made solely from the meat of bison cows and young bulls. The tougher meat of old bulls was used mainly to feed dogs or eaten in dire emergencies. Pemmican is eaten as a soup, stew or as is. When available, leaves of the peppermint plant or wild onions are commonly added for flavour.

Pemmican was originally made as back-up for times when game was scarce because it is virtually unspoilable, portable and lightweight for travellers. It is also provides a balanced diet with the meat for protein, the berries for essential vitamins, and the fat and marrow are a ready source of energy. The early Hudson’s Bay Company bought tons of pemmican which they provided to fur trappers who needed concentrated calories for their hard lifestyle of paddling all day and negotiating through numerous portages while carrying heavy loads.


Drying Saskatoon berries, which are used as an ingredient of pemmican.

Image source: National Archives of Canada / PA-44566


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